One February I remember my
father going out into the garden and planting seeds. We had had a
good bit of snow the previous week and there were still reminders of
it in the shadier parts of the backyard. However, the sun was out,
the temperature had warmed and the snow had melted away in the
garden. This February, just like my Dad, I'm planning to be out in
the garden planting seeds, weather permitting. When I asked my dad
what he was doing that day he replied, an “experiment”, but in
actuality he was pre-seeding the garden.
Pre-seeding reminds me a
little bit of “winter sowing” but with out the jugs. They both
allow for an earlier start to the growing season, the plants are
already conditioned to the outside so there is no need for “hardening
off” and there is little or no chance of transfer shock which makes
for healthier plants. Plants started indoors are grown under
“controlled” conditions and even with proper transition to the
outside will still go through a period of stress. This stress delays
the plants growth, makes it vulnerable to insect and disease, and
reduces productivity. In addition, not all vegetable seeds should be
started indoors: if it grows under ground then direct sow with the
possible exception of onions. Seeds of peas, beans and corn may be
started indoors but are tricky to transplant outdoors and will most
likely suffer for it.
Many annual seeds weather
the winter because of sheer numbers. They produce an overly abundant
amount of seeds so some are sure to survive. However, a cold spell is
not required for annual seeds to germinate. The “relative cold
tolerance” of annual seeds as it applies to seed germination can be
broken down into hardy, half-hardy and tender(tropical) annuals.
This should not be confused with plant cold hardiness and may not
correspond. Hardy annual seeds can handle being frozen and can be
planted in late fall or as soon as the ground can be worked in early
spring. Half hardy annual seeds do not tolerate being frozen and
should be sown after the ground has thawed but it's not necessary for
the soil to warm up. Tender (tropical) annual seeds should be
planted only after the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has
passed.
The ideal time to pre-seed
veggies seeds is when the temperature has dropped and there is little
chance of freeze-thaw cycles. Germination begins when the soil
temperature is within the minimum/maximum range and seeds absorb
water and swell. Once germination begins it can not be stopped. Air
temperature is critical for sprout survival. A warm spell sufficient
to start germination that is then fallowed by a cold snap will kill
seedlings. (During the winter soil temperature is warmer then the
overlying air temperature). “Optimum soil temperature” is the
temperature at which you will get maximum germination in the shortest
amount of time. Percent of success on seed packets is based on
optimum soil temperature. If conditions are not 100% ideal, sow
seeds a bit heavier then suggested. You can always thin them out
later.
Select the area you plan
to pre-seed in the fall and make sure it's not an area prone to
standing water come spring, which will rot your seeds. Prepare the
garden area by removing spent plants, weeds and other debris. Add
more soil if needed and work in compost. Cover with shredded leaves,
straw or other mulch. When it's time to plant pull back on the mulch
and sow according to the directions on the seed packet as it pertains
to seed depth and spacing. Spread the mulch back over your newly
planted areas. Some of the more cold
hardy veggies seeds are your root vegetables, lettuce, peas, celery,
swiss chard, spinach, “cole crops” like broccoli, brussel
sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale, mustard greens and
kohlrabi. The area I'm planning to pre-seed is between my rows of
already planted garlic. I allowed for extra spacing (twelve inches)
and all except peas are good companion plants.
