Rainy days and Sundays always get me down when I can not garden!

Tuesday, April 15, 2014


I joined .....
so I could take this.....
awesome 8 hour class......
to learn about these little guys, which are actually mostly girls!!!!

Snacks and lunch included
plus amazing raffle items.
The Old Way.....called a skep...(illegal in many places)

The current way...The Langstoth bee hive patented October 1852
And soon I will be installing my own hive.....
Hive body

A frame with eggs, larvae, sealed brood cells, pollen and honey filled cells

So I can become a APIARIST and do this!!!!!

Tuesday, April 1, 2014


Came across this Deer Antler down by the creek today!

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
"Antlers are extensions of the skull grown by members of the deer family. They are true bone structures that usually grow in symmetrical pairs. In most species, only males grow antlers and their primary function is to increasing his likelihood of sexual selection by attracting females or fighting other males. In many temperate zone species, antlers are shed and regrown each year."


Tuesday, March 25, 2014


First grown in 1621, potatoes are the most popular veggie in the US.  A cool season crop, potatoes can survive a light frost. Plant in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked, 2 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date.  Depending on the maturation date (time to harvesting), the goal is to harvest your potatoes before soil temperatures reach 60-70 degrees.  

You can purchase certified, disease free "seed potatoes".  (This will reduce the risk of caring over any diseases from the previous year).  However, I could not let this bag of potatoes go to waste, so I will take my chances.  

Pre-sprouted spuds will mature about a month earlier then using potatoes with just "eyes".  

Cut into 1" pieces with 1 to 3 "eyes" per piece.

Ideally, it is best to cut the potatoes about 2 days before planting.  This allows the pieces to dry, creating a "seal",  reducing rotting and disease.  

Potatoes like a slightly acidic soil of 6.0 pH or less.  I added some evergreens cuttings to the soil, and will side dress later on, once the plants are established.  

Dig down to a depth of 10" to loosen the soil.  Create 4" deep furrows, spacing cut pieces 12" apart.  Place pieces sprout side or "eye side" up, and cover with a couple of inches of soil.

I added a layer of leaves to help keep the ground warm.

I also decided to cover with weed cloth (for added warmth)  since we are expecting snow.

This area has been covered since February 9.  The ground has warmed up a bit, and the soil does not clump when squeezed.  However, we are about 20 degrees below normal, and snow is on the way.  I decided to put back the "cold frame" unto weather conditions improve a bit.  Once a week I will check on the progress and also give them about 1 to 2 inches of water.  

Tuesday, March 11, 2014


Frame snaps together without tools!

Works with all FRAME IT ALL raised bed kits.

Slips into place

Inside view.

Roll up window with bug netting for air flow.

Greenhouse easily fits over the frame.

Greenhouse in the front with the veggie wall in the back.

Finished view!


Sunday, March 2, 2014

Tuesday, February 25, 2014


The average last frost date in my area falls between April 7 to April 23, with a 50% probability of frost free days after April 6.  Our winter has been cold with lots of snow, so I am using the later date for my LSF (last spring frost) to determine my seed starting schedule.

The soil in raised beds warm up faster then traditional gardens. By adding a hoop house, which is warmed by the sun, I can get a jump start on spring, extending the growing season by 4-6 weeks.

I don't like to rely on just one method for seed starting, just in case something goes wrong.  Instead, I do a combination INDOOR SEED STARTING, WINTER SOWING, and DIRECT SOWING.  

Outside, I have started "WINTER SOWING" of Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Lettuce, Spinach, and Onions, and Brussels Sprouts.

Inside, Onions, Broccoli, Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts, Spinach, Peppers, Radishes

Starting in Mid-March, I will DIRECT SOW most of the above under the HOOP HOUSES and COLD FRAMES, along with PEAS, LEAFY GREENS, and ROOT VEGETABLES.