TAKE A GARDEN QUIZ

I've always thought of myself as being passionate about gardening and based on the results of the online quiz, “Whats your garden style?” (www.quibblo.com/.../What-is-your-garden-stylem), I am! According to this quiz, gardening (for me) is an all encompassing way of life, continuously on my mind, working towards self sufficiency. From heat to weeds, I enjoy it all. It allows me to connect with nature, and to “just be” in my happy place.

Have you ever given thought to how you would describe the look of your gardens? When it comes to my own I would describe them as a bit willy nilly. So, I took the quiz, “What's your garden personality” by Canadian living (www.canadianliving.com/home-and-garden/article/quiz-what). The results? The garden style that best fits my personality is an English cottage garden. This style of gardening is not for those who play by the rules. Anything goes and you will try at least once, twice maybe three times (insanity or determination?) something new. The English cottage garden is informal with a blend of ornamental, annuals and edibles such as herbs, fruit trees and vegetables.

Are you familiar with the name Capability Brown? If so, you may be able to call yourself a “pro gardener”. When you are not toying in your garden then most likely you are at the local garden center where as in the show “CHEERS” everybody knows your name. You may not think that you are an expert but take this quiz from stuff.co.nz (www.stuff.co.nz/.../Whats-your-gardening-personality ) and find out if you garden like a pro! And Capability Brown, he was a landscape architect from 18^th century and considered England’s greatest gardener.

If you would say that your method of weed control is to pull them out, the sunflower is your first choice when it comes to annuals and you know what the word “bolting” means then you are truly a “green fingered gardening god” (www.playbuzz.com/.../whats-your-gardening-personality). You may own a half dozen pairs of gardening gloves but you have no trouble digging into the dirt with your bare hands!

If you do wear gloves then you may be interested in this quiz by The Garden Glove (www.thegardenglove.com/quiz-what-is-your-garden-style/ ). Take this five question quiz to learn what garden style is right for you and tips on how to create it.

If you answered with mostly A's, then you enjoy a “Nature Lovers Garden”. You love mother nature and take your cues from her. Your garden is not traditional and a bit wild. The emphasis may be on native plants but there is still a lot of creativity.

A Modern Garden (mostly B's) focuses on “less is more” and keeping things simple. The use of repetition in plant choices, color and plant placement puts the focus on hardscaping, form and texture.

I answered with mostly C's which resulted in the “Country Garden” Not as wild as a nature lovers garden the country garden is informal and tend to be a mix of many different types of plants but with a feeling of uniformity. The country gardener is always learning, not afraid to experiment nor are they afraid to change things up as needed.

French formal gardens are best viewed from a distance and usually includes straight lines of precision cut hedges, square beds, a water feature, statues and brick or stone pathways to give it a sense of order. If this is more your garden style then you answered with mostly D's.

Believe it or not, Sears has a quiz: What's your garden design style? (www.searshomeservices.com/blog/quiz-whats-your) Regardless if you are new to gardening or have been at it for a long time, this quiz will reveal if English Cottage, Asian-Inspired, Modern or Eco- Friendly expresses your inner gardener.

I was unaware that there are different types of gardeners so I took the quiz “What type of gardener are you? (www.proprofs.com/quiz-school/story.php?title=NjI) The results “Vegetational Deity”. (Vegetational of or pertaining to vegetation and deity, god or goddess). My garden is my domain and a representation of who I am. I will not hesitate to pull out plants that disappoint, move plants about the garden as needed and spend endless hours striving for perfection never to be satisfied. Based on this description it appears as if there is no end in sight!

For added fun (why not) I took the quiz “What's your mulch personality?” (www.bhg.com) Being a “true gardener” I prefer compost as my mulch of choice. What other kinds are there?

Lastly, the garden style quiz by Monrovia (www. monrovia.com) is designed to help you find which garden inspiration best fits your lifestyle. The results “Echo Friendly Garden” describes all Master Gardeners. It's principles are:

1. Go green by composting yard waste and kitchen scraps, reuse, re-purpose and recycle when ever possible, and water wisely.

2. “Do no harm” by going native, removing non- native, invasive species and avoiding the use of pesticides, herbicides, and chemical fertilizers.

3. You love this planet and give back by providing food, water and shelter for pollinators and work with mother nature to create a friendly wildlife habitat. You also give back by volunteering your time in the community.

Explore the wold of gardening with on line self assessment quizzes and see how your garden grows!

PROTECT and CERTIFY

In 2007, to address the declining pollinator populations the U.S. Senate approved one week in June as National Pollinator Week. This years National Pollinator Week designation is June 18-24 2018. In 2011 Penn State Master Gardeners took action to protect pollinators and started certifying gardens “Pollinator Friendly”. Currently there are 750 certified gardens in 56 counties in PA. The top three counties are Lancaster with 87, York with 76 and Berks with 63. Delaware county has sixteen certified gardens and is tied with Lebanon county for thirteenth place.

So what's involved in getting your garden certified pollinator friendly? To begin, download the application at https://ento.psu.edu/publications/pollin-app. Complete the contact information and the location of the garden that you are certifying. The application is then broken down into four parts.

STEP ONE:PROVIDE FOOD

Certification is based on the use of native plants do to their close relationship with pollinators. Plants selected need to provide pollen and nectar from early spring, through summer and into fall and offer different flower shapes and sizes. A combination of four trees and/or shrubs are needed (unless you are unable to meet this criteria) plus two different species of perennials from each season (planted in groups of three) for a total of eighteen plants. Two of the trees, shrubs or perennials must be a host plant for caterpillars (ex. Milkweed for the Monarch). The list of seventeen trees, twenty three shrubs and forty two perennials are suggestions, however, other natives will be considered.

STEP TWO: PROVIDE WATER SOURCES

Just like most living things pollinators need water. If you are not lucky enough to have a creek, stream or pond on your property, then a simple bird bath or mud puddling area will suffice. However, for certification this is a must.

STEP THREE: PROVIDE SHELTER

70% of our native bees nest underground. Others are solitary nesters using hollow stems, holes in wood, or crevices in stones. Many bees and insects overwinter as eggs, larva, chrysalis or adults under leaves, rocks or loose bark, at the base of grasses and inside stems. Providing bare areas in your lawn, rock piles or dead wood and man-made bee boxes will help to provide nesting sites and shelter. By keeping your garden clean up until late April will ensure that you will not disturb overwintering insects.

STEP FOUR: SAFEGAURDING POLLINATOR HABITAT

The certification is based on native plants do to their close association with pollinators. Native plants are four times more attractive to pollinators then non-native plants. Non-natives threaten the local ecosystem, disrupting biodiversity and pushing out natives. Avoid purchasing non-natives and work on removing them (especially invasive) from your garden and replacing with suitable natives. Reduce the use of pesticides or use sparingly according to the guidelines given.

Complete the application by answering the questions on the area, size and description of the garden site. For the purpose of verification you will need to include either a sketch or pictures showing the location of the required plants. Finally, sign the application and submit it (mail or e-mail) along with a $10 non-refundable processing fee.

Once your application is received it will be reviewed by the pollinator committee and if it meets all the criteria then your garden will be certified and registered. You will also receive a certificate recognizing that your garden is certified “Pollinator Friendly”. To “show off” to your neighbors or perhaps explain why your garden looks the way it does you can purchase a garden sign for $30.00.

TALKING TO HONEYBEES

Since the time of Aristaeus, the God of Beekeeping, it was believed that bees had the power over death. Bees represent birth, resurrection and immortality along with wisdom. Bees are the messenger between the living world and the spirit world. Customs dating back to medieval England talk about “the telling of the bees” of a birth, death or any other major event. Invitations to social occasions were made either verbally at the hives or written, tacked to the hives. Talking to the bees in advance was believed to keep the bees from dying, absconding (fly off) and to continue producing honey.

One of the earliest documented references on this is J Molle's The Living Libraries (1621), "Who would beleeve without superstition (if experience did not make it credible), that most commonly all the bees die in their hives, if the master or mistresse of the house chance to die, except the hives be presently removed into some other place? And yet I know this hath hapned to folke no way stained with superstition." The belief was that the attachment of bees to the beekeeper was so strong that if the beekeeper dies so does the hive thus the hive is moved to a new location.

On September 13, 1790 an article appears in the London newspaper the “Argus” on the custom of “turning the bees”. The belief is that the hive of the deceased is turned around as their corpse is being removed from the home. Another practice is the “heaving up” of the hives. Here, the hive of the deceased is picked up at the same time as their coffin is being removed from the home, based on a belief that the soul of the deceased returns as a bee.

In the book, The Secret Life of Bees by Sue Monk Kidd, Lilly, Zach and August drape black crepe fabric over the hives in response to May's death. August explains to Lilly that “covering the hives was supposed to keep the bees from leaving. You see, the last thing they wanted was their bees swarming off when a death took place. Having bees around was supposed to ensure that the dead person would live again.” August goes on to explain that with death there is rebirth.

“Most people don’t have any idea about all the complicated life going on inside a hive. Bees have a secret life we don’t know anything about.” -The Secret life of Bees

RESIST THE FEVER TO SPRING CLEAN

Many beneficial insects overwinter under leaves, inside the hollows of plant stems, on branches and in the soil of your garden. Insects are an important part of your local ecosystem pollinating ¾ of all flowering plants and 1/3 of the foods we enjoy. Since 1989 there has been a 75% decline in the insect population. Good bugs eat bad bugs and all bugs provide food for fish, amphibians and birds. 98% of all songbirds need insects to feed their young. Ideally, garden clean up should not start until outside temperatures are around fifty degrees and the soil is dry (mid-April to mid May). Spring clean with care, gently removing leaves so not to disturb ground nesting bees, overwintering butterflies, and predatory (good) insects. Avoid bagging yard waste, instead, place it in a compost bin or in a pile off to the side for late emerging insects. Lastly, avoid mulching to soon making it hard for soil loving insects from emerging.

 “No winter last forever: no spring skips it's turn”. - Hal Borland

PRE-SEEDING FOR AN EARLY START IN THE GARDEN

One February I remember my father going out into the garden and planting seeds. We had had a good bit of snow the previous week and there were still reminders of it in the shadier parts of the backyard. However, the sun was out, the temperature had warmed and the snow had melted away in the garden. This February, just like my Dad, I'm planning to be out in the garden planting seeds, weather permitting. When I asked my dad what he was doing that day he replied, an “experiment”, but in actuality he was pre-seeding the garden.

Pre-seeding reminds me a little bit of “winter sowing” but with out the jugs. They both allow for an earlier start to the growing season, the plants are already conditioned to the outside so there is no need for “hardening off” and there is little or no chance of transfer shock which makes for healthier plants. Plants started indoors are grown under “controlled” conditions and even with proper transition to the outside will still go through a period of stress. This stress delays the plants growth, makes it vulnerable to insect and disease, and reduces productivity. In addition, not all vegetable seeds should be started indoors: if it grows under ground then direct sow with the possible exception of onions. Seeds of peas, beans and corn may be started indoors but are tricky to transplant outdoors and will most likely suffer for it.

Many annual seeds weather the winter because of sheer numbers. They produce an overly abundant amount of seeds so some are sure to survive. However, a cold spell is not required for annual seeds to germinate. The “relative cold tolerance” of annual seeds as it applies to seed germination can be broken down into hardy, half-hardy and tender(tropical) annuals. This should not be confused with plant cold hardiness and may not correspond. Hardy annual seeds can handle being frozen and can be planted in late fall or as soon as the ground can be worked in early spring. Half hardy annual seeds do not tolerate being frozen and should be sown after the ground has thawed but it's not necessary for the soil to warm up. Tender (tropical) annual seeds should be planted only after the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has passed.

The ideal time to pre-seed veggies seeds is when the temperature has dropped and there is little chance of freeze-thaw cycles. Germination begins when the soil temperature is within the minimum/maximum range and seeds absorb water and swell. Once germination begins it can not be stopped. Air temperature is critical for sprout survival. A warm spell sufficient to start germination that is then fallowed by a cold snap will kill seedlings. (During the winter soil temperature is warmer then the overlying air temperature). “Optimum soil temperature” is the temperature at which you will get maximum germination in the shortest amount of time. Percent of success on seed packets is based on optimum soil temperature. If conditions are not 100% ideal, sow seeds a bit heavier then suggested. You can always thin them out later.

Select the area you plan to pre-seed in the fall and make sure it's not an area prone to standing water come spring, which will rot your seeds. Prepare the garden area by removing spent plants, weeds and other debris. Add more soil if needed and work in compost. Cover with shredded leaves, straw or other mulch. When it's time to plant pull back on the mulch and sow according to the directions on the seed packet as it pertains to seed depth and spacing. Spread the mulch back over your newly planted areas.  Some of the more cold hardy veggies seeds are your root vegetables, lettuce, peas, celery, swiss chard, spinach, “cole crops” like broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale, mustard greens and kohlrabi. The area I'm planning to pre-seed is between my rows of already planted garlic. I allowed for extra spacing (twelve inches) and all except peas are good companion plants.

WHEN DOES YOUR GARLIC GROW?

Along with tulips, daffodils and crocuses I have always planted garlic in the fall. However, at a recent Master Gardener meeting a question was raised as to when to plant garlic? I thought to myself, the fall of course! Imagine my surprise when several members replied “in early spring”. Baffled, I decided to do a little research.

The “center of origin” (or “center of diversity”) from which garlic originated is believed to be in the area of China, India, Egypt and the Ukraine. Garlic is one of the oldest cultivated foods although it is uncertain as to when it was first discovered or used. Records dating back to the 4^th millennium BC (4000-3001bc) mention the use of garlic for health and medicinal uses. Garlic made it way to the US in the 1700's, however, it was not widely accepted due to its pungent smell and “garlic breath”. It wasn’t until about the 1920's that garlic became more accepted in the US and by the 1990's its consumption has more then tripled with the average person eating 2.3 pounds (170 cloves) of garlic yearly. Today, the US is the fourth largest producer of garlic and the worlds largest importer!

Garlic is available in a variety of sizes, shapes, color, taste or pungency, cloves per head and shelf life. World wide there are at least 600 cultivated sub varieties and ten genetically distinct groups. True garlic (Allium sativum) is a member of the Liliacea (lily) family, along with chives, onions, leeks, and shallots. There are two sub species of Allium sativum, ophioscorodon or hardneck (aka stiffneck) garlic and sativum or softneck garlic. To complicate things just a bit more, softneck garlic has been cultivated from hardneck garlic over many, many, many years. Additionally, elephant garlic is not considered a true garlic, but instead is a variant of a leek.

Garlic reproduces by bulb division (asexual reproduction), bulbils (miniature cloves) harvested from mature scapes (hardnecks) and sexual reproduction by seed (hardnecks). Most garlic is asexually propagated by means of vegetative reproduction. Asexual reproduction is when a new plant is produced from a single parent with out fertilization or meiosis (cell division). Its a sterile clone of the parent with the same identical genetic make up. In vegetative reproduction, just one example of asexual propagation a new plant grows from a piece of the original plant. In the case of garlic, a clove.

There are four factors at play that influences the reproductive process in order for garlic to form bulbs, day length, soil and air temperature and vernalization or prolong period of cold. Garlic is day length sensitive with short day hours (long nights) contributing to more vegetative or top growth and long days (short nights) triggering bulb formation and the elongation of the flower stalk (scape) in hardnecks. Longer days also means warmer soil and air temperatures. A majority of garlic varieties have evolved and/or thrive in cooler climates. This is the reason why a chilling period of six to twelve weeks is needed in order to produce a bulb, especially when it comes to hardneck varieties. So, after a long vernalization period, fallowed by warming soil (60+) and air (68+) temperatures plus thirteen hours of daylight, bulb formation begins. (The challenge of growing large garlic bulbs in the south is to have plants with lots of leaves and good root system before bulbing begins.)

Another way to look at softneck vs hardneck is spring planting vs fall planting. As mentioned above hardneck variety’s need a cooling off period and is best planted in the fall. They also handle harsher weather conditions. Softnecks do well under a variety of weather conditions but are more ideal for the south or planted in early spring in the north. With that being said can you grow hardnecks in the south and softnecks in the fall?

By the time the autumn equinox arrives I have ordered/received my garlic and prepared my beds for planting. In the northern part of the county, Columbus day is the unofficial start of the garlic planting season with Halloween the unofficial end. However, over the pass few years I've have planted garlic well into November. The trick for fall planting is to get the cloves in the ground in enough time for good root growth (three to six weeks) but not to early that you get more then four inches of top growth. This is ideally two to three weeks after the first frost but about a month or so before the ground freezes. The soil temperature at four inches deep should be around fifty degrees Fahrenheit. (Raised beds are about eight to thirteen degrees warmer then planting in the ground). Any top growth will die back in the winter and then resume in the spring.

Garlic tolerates a variety of conditions but will do its best in loamy, nitrogen rich, weed free soil with good drainage, a pH between 6.0-7.5 and six plus hours of sun for good bulb development. If planting in the fall you will need to mulch unless you are guaranteed consistent snow coverage of six inches. When planting garlic I do not like to separate the cloves until I'm ready to place them in the ground. In my raised beds I plant each clove three to four inches deep and six inches apart in rows spaced one foot apart. In the spring I begin to pull back the mulch and feed with fish emulsion (or side dress with compost) when shoots appear. Garlic also likes a good bit of water, about one inch weekly. Rotate where you grow your garlic every three years.

Hardneck garlic produces a scape sometimes referred to as “serpent garlic” because of how it curls around. These scapes are edible and may be eaten raw or cooked. If left on, the energy is directed to the scape resulting in smaller garlic bulbs.

Fall planted garlic is ready for harvest in about nine months, typically June or July. The lower leaves of healthy plants begin to turn yellow and if the scapes are left on they will straighten out. The goal is for maximum size with out splitting. Carefully dig up your garlic and air dry away from sun to prevent scalding in a well ventilated location for two to three weeks. Once cured rub off any dirt and remove tops or braid. Garlic harvested early or used fresh is known as “green garlic”

Planting garlic in the spring gives you an opportunity for a second chance in case you missed the fall planting season. In the north, softneck varieties are better in spring since they do not require as much or any cold exposure. Plant as early as the ground can be worked, however, a delay in spring planting and/or less then ideal weather conditions may lead to week shoots and poor bulb development. If you wish to plant hardnecks in the spring you will need to store the bulbs at or below forty degrees (not in the freezer) for a minimum of forty days. If not the bulbs will not differentiate (divide). Even under the most ideal conditions you will still get better yields and larger bulbs with fall planted garlic.

“A nickel will get you on the subway, but garlic will get you a seat” Yiddish proverb

FESTIVE "TOPIARY" CHRISTMAS TREES!

The Schoolhouse garden club created festive "topiary" Christmas trees utilizing tomato cages.  The upside down cages were anchored to the pots, wrapped with garland and decorated with seasonal adornments.

Senior Community Services

600 Swarthmore Avenue

Folsom, PA 19033

www.scs-delco.org

610-237-8100

RAISING MONARCHS

It all began on August 10^th when I spotted a female monarch fluttering about my milkweed. I had started growing milkweed several years earlier when I first became aware of the decrease (90% over a span of two decades) in these beautiful Lepidoptera. As many of you may know, milkweed is the only host plant for monarchs. (Host plants provide a place for the female to lay her eggs and the food source for the caterpillars.) I figured by growing milkweed I was doing my part until I heard about “cat mammas”, individuals “collecting” and “raising” monarchs indoors. Monarch eggs are very small making it hard to spot them, however, watching a female lay her eggs you need only to wait and collect the leaf once she is finished! As I learned later, it may also ensure that the egg/caterpillars are not parasitized by the tachinid fly. So there I was collecting the leaves and bringing them inside the house, and even though I had already read up on the process, I was on a crash course in learning how to raise monarchs!

DAY 0-5 EGG  

The female monarch can lay between 100-500 eggs in her lifetime. She prefers younger plants or the newer leaves towards the top of older milkweed since they are easier for the cats to eat. She deposits one egg to the underside of the leaf securing it in place with a “glue” like substance. The egg is cream colored with distinct ridges, measuring 1.2mm high and .9mm wide. From the time the cat emerges from its egg it begins to eat, starting with its own shell!

DAY 3-17 LARVAL STAGE or “CATS”

Monarch cats are born to eat. They have a voracious appetite resulting in a 2000%+ increase in their size over a two week period. And with all this eating there is a lot of frass (poop)! During the larval stage the cat goes through five growth spurts or “instars”. (At the first instar the cat is between 2-6mm and by the fifth instar 25-45mm).  Each instar takes between one and three days to complete with the exception of the fifth which can take three to five days.  Temperature, humidity, light and quality of food effects this growth rate.  With each growth spurt stretch detectors signal that a newer, larger skin is needed. The period between each instar is when the cat molts or sheds. Shortly before molting your cat may not eat, remain still or wonder off. When its ready the caterpillar spins a bed of silk on which to anchor itself. This liquid silk is produced in the salivary gland which is excreted through a tube-like structure called a spinneret, located in the caterpillar's mouth. The head capsule is expelled first and then the cat wiggles/walks out of its old skin. Once out, the cat, you guessed it, eats the newly shedded skin!

By the fifth instar the caterpillar has grown to about two inches in length and has become rather plump. Once again, when ready, it will stop eating and wonder off. This time however, its looking for a safe place for its final transformation. This will typically be at the top of your enclosure.

DAY 15-19 “Hanging Out”

Once a cat finds a safe place to hang out it will weave a patch of silk for its final anchor. It will then turn around and grab on tight to this silk pad with its rear clasping hooks. The cats life may very well depend on this “death grip” since falling would most likely injure/kill the caterpillar. While hanging they look like a “j” and will remain this way for one to two days. The cessation of the “juvenile hormone” triggers the caterpillar to shed its exoskeleton and reveal the pupa or chrysalis. When this happens they wiggle, twist, jerk and squirm their way out, splitting the skin from the head to the rear and finally breaking the ligament that is holding the skin to the pupa. This time they do not eat the skin and you can usually find it at the bottom of the enclosure. The chrysalis starts out soft (and should not be handled) but will harden over time to form a protective shell. If you need to move a chrysalis for any reason its best to wait a few days.

Day 17-31 DON'T CALL ME A COCOON!

Anticipation, and like a nervous “cat momma” I wait, and wait and wait. It takes about two weeks for a monarch caterpillar to rearrange all its parts and “eclose” (emerge) as a beautiful butterfly. Shortly before the butterfly is about to make its debut the chrysalis becomes transparent and the pupa darkens, making it possible to see the outline of the wings. Once out of the shell, the butterfly hangs upside down so that fluid (hemolymph) can be pumped from the abdomen to their crumpled wings, forcing them to stretch out and expand. If either or both wings harden before fully inflated they will be unable to fly. This process takes between 30 minutes to several hours and the butterfly should not be handled (if possible) during this time. In addition to their wings, the tongue (proboscis) which is in two halves must fuse together to form a tube. The monarch will extend and retreat the two halves until it becomes one. Failure to do so will result in the monarchs inability to take in nectar.

The MAGNIFICENT MONARCH  

The average life of an adult monarch is 2-6 weeks during the summer. They mate within days of emerging and the female immediately begins to lay eggs. It is possible to have multiple (2,3,4) generations in a single summer. The exception are monarchs born in late summer which do not mate but travel (the great monarch migration) to their winter destinations of Southern California (western monarchs) and Mexico (eastern monarchs). Here they will over winter in a semi-dormant state until they begin the process all over again in the spring!

There is about a 10% survival rate from egg to butterfly in the outdoors. However, there's an upwards of 90% success rate with monarchs raised indoors. Here are a few things I learned along the way.

1. Grow your own milkweed and have plenty of it. Cats need fresh leaves almost daily void of any pesticides. It also suggested to rinse the leaves with a water prior to feeding them to your cats.
2. Have the correct raising cages designed to keep the cats safe, provide adequate ventilation, light, humidity and are easy to keep clean.
3. Although its no guarantee, starting with eggs or very small cats (first and second instar) reduces the chance of the cat being parasitized by tachinid flies.
4. Cats are very sensitive to a magnitude of ingredients and when they come into contact with them or are poisoned they throw up a green liquid. Keep your raising area chemical free and off limits to all potential hazards including pets.
5. To avoid smaller cats from becoming lunch for larger cats (fourth and fifth instars) keep them in separate containers. Do not overcrowd your enclosures and keep butterfly’s separate from caterpillars. If you suspect that a cat is sick, separate it from the others.
6. Clean cages daily of frass.
7. Wash and rinse hands well before and after handling milkweed*
8. Learn to recognize common monarch diseases and parasites. However if already sick, the chances of survival are slim.
9. Be prepared to euthanize sick cats and/or butterflies if necessary.

Out of the eleven I started with from either eggs or very small cats, eight made it to adulthood (73%). I released my first butterfly, a male, on September 11.

*One final note, the sap of milkweed can cause atopic dermatitis, inflammation, pain swelling, burns and corneal damage to the eyes. Be very careful when working/handling it.

IN MEMORY

Flowers are a special way to remember the life of someone who is no longer with us. At the Schoolhouse Senior Center in Folsom, friends and loved ones purchased plants to memorialize members who have passed away. The garden club members wrapped each plant in gold foil and tied them with a ribbon for presentation at a Memorial Service on September 20. As each name was called, stories, eulogies and special thoughts were shared by attendees. After the memorial service the flowers were planted in the gardens surrounding the Schoolhouse property. The garden club planted a combination of chrysanthemums (mums) and native perennials, placing identification markers next to each plant.

Chrysanthemums are the largest commercially produced flowers in the US with their roots dating back to 1884. Mums are short day plants (long night) requiring less then 12 hours of light to form flowers. The official “Queen” of fall flowers they represent the end of summer and the start to fall. They liven up the garden, bringing joy and beauty when other plants have faded away. Using mums at a funeral or memorial service symbolizes sympathy, honor and respect.

To help achieve the goal of having the gardens certified pollinator friendly, native plants were purchased from Redbud nursery in Media, PA. One shrub (or tree) and fifteen perennials where needed to complete the application process. (For information on getting your garden certified “Pollinator Friendly” go to ento.psu.edu). The plants purchased should help the Schoolhouse meet the requirements for certification!

Senior Community Services Mission is to “provide independent and meaningful living for older adults through direct services and programs in the home and community”. Master Gardeners (of Delaware County, PA) work with garden club volunteers to maintain and enhance the gardens. We meet April through October (weather permitting) on Monday mornings from 9-11 am. If interested in helping out in 2018, please feel free to contact me.

“If you would be happy for a lifetime, grow Chrysanthemums.” (a Chinese philosopher)

RAGWEED vs GOLDENROD: GUILT BY ASSOCIATION

Fall, cooler temperatures, less bugs, shorter days and "achoo"!. Often referred to as hay fever (with neither hay or fever being a factor), the proper term is allergic rhinitis.  Effecting 40-60 million Americans annually, symptoms include runny or stuffy nose, itchy eyes, scratchy throat, fatigue and of course sneezing.  Unfortunately, what is often blamed for the cause of your misery is a case of mistaken identity.

Like fraternal twins both ragweed and goldenrod are part of the Asteraceae or Compositae family.  This group also includes aster, daisy, marigold, zinnia, dandelion, sunflower and many others. However no on ever says, "geez, those sunflowers are really bothering my allergies!"  So why is there so much confusion?  They are both native, could that be the reason?  Probably not.  It's more likely because they are both blooming around the same time of year.  Beyond that there are really no similarities.  Goldenrod with its bright yellow flowers outshines ragweed's unexceptional pale, greenish flowers.

Belonging to the Genus, Ambosia ("food of the Gods"),  Ragweed is either an annual, perennial or a shrub and spreads by seeds, rhizomes or has a taproot.  It's a food source for quail and other birds and a host plant for some moths and butterfly's.  Native Americans used fibers from the stems to make thread, crushed leaves to place on insect bites, made a salve for skin sores and teas for medical uses.  Ragweed pollen is lite making it easy to move about in the wind.  It begins its assault on our sinus's  in August and continues into November, not stopping until after the first frost.   A single plant can produce about a billion grains of pollen per season, peaking around labor day.  One indicator of climate change is the increase length in the ragweed season.

Goldenrod is ranked as a top herbaceous plant by Doug Tallamy, author of "Bringing Nature Home".  Probably one of the most important late season sources for pollen and nectar Solidago, the Latin word for goldenrod means "to make whole" due to its wound healing properties. Native Americans chewed on the leaves to soothe sore throats and the roots for toothaches. In herbal medicine it is brewed into a tea and used as a  tonic for kidney and urinary track infections.  Goldenrod is heavy and sticky making it difficult to be wind pollinated.  Instead, the pollen hitches a ride on the insects that feed on it's nectar and is carried from one plant to the next.  Roughly 115 species of moths and butterflies and 11 species of native bees, as well as honeybees, solitary wasp and fire flies rely on goldenrod for food.  In the fall goldenrod is a critical food source for monarch butterflies during the "Great Monarch Migration" as they return to their overwintering sites in California and New Mexico.  Left in the garden, goldenrod offers winter interest as well as seeds for birds.

GOLDENROD

HUNG UP ON WINDOW BOXES

It is believed that the first window boxes hung from the terraces in the Gardens of Babylon (southern Iraq) making the plants look like they were suspended or floating in mid air. The story goes that King Nebuchadnezzar II, who ruled between 605-562 BC had the gardens built for his wife Queen Amytis of Medis who was homesick for the mountains of her homeland. In 290 BC the Babylonian Priest Berrossus writes about these gardens crediting the King with their creation. The exact location of these gardens have yet to be identified and no physical evidence have been found making some believe they are more mythical then physical. If the gardens were real then it's believed that they had been destroyed after the 1^st century AD.

For the Romans the use of window boxes was purposeful and convenient. These terra cotta boxes were used for growing herbs for food, medicine and religious purposes. Overtime, these boxes took on a more decorative role with flowers replacing herbs. Wealthy Romans created gardens on balconies and rooftops with the use of window boxes. Roman writer, naturalist and philosopher Pliny the Elder mentions window boxes in his works, Naturalis Historia (encyclopedias). In it he writes:

“The urban poor used to have window-boxes, which gave them a glimpse of the countryside every day, but now the countless violent burglaries have forced them to shutter their windows.”

The use of window boxes spread through Europe (as did the Romans) and eventually to the US. The French used wrought iron to create their boxes while the English utilized wire hay baskets for a “cottage style garden”. The arrival of the settlers to America gave rise to the traditional colonial style window box. One thought is that the poor utilized window boxes in Europe do to lack of land for traditional gardens. In historic cities like Charleston, South Carolina, homes extend all the way out to the sidewalks. This left no front yard garden space, thus the use of window boxes. Today, these boxes play a vital role in the cities appearance.

 

According to an article in the Independent (Oct. 13, 1995) window boxes were at their height of popularity by the 1870's. In 1955, Neosho Missouri embarked on a city wide, beautification project utilizing window-boxes. Since 1957 it has been known as “The Flower Box City” at least to the locals. In cities like Philadelphia, window box companies will design, install, plant and replant your window-boxes seasonally.

When designing your own window boxes think “Thriller, Filler, Spiller”. Thriller plants are the tallest, adding drama, movement and a focal point. Fillers, as the name implies adds mass, texture and color. And spillers are trailing plants that drape over the sides, creating softness and anchors the design.

Window boxes can add charm and beauty. They are miniature gardens that bring nature in and provide a colorful view looking out. They can also support our pollinators. In 2016 the USDA launched “Plant A Window Box for Pollinators” through the Peoples Garden Initiative Website (peoplesgarden.usda.gov). This tool helps you locate plants for pollinators based on your zip code. The Pollinator Partnership (pollinator.org/windowbox) has created an online web application in which you can create a window boxes for pollinators with an emphasis on native plants. Once created you can share your virtual window box with others through social media or create the real deal.

IT'S WINTER, HOW DOES YOUR GARDEN GROW?

"Every gardener knows that under the cloak of winter lies a miracle … a seed waiting to sprout, a bulb opening to the light, a bud straining to unfurl.  And the anticipation nurtures our dream.” –  Barbara Winkler

December 21 is the shortest day of the year (in the northern hemisphere) and the official start to winter! Known as the Winter Solstice it is also the start of “WINTER SOWING” (creator and Guru Trudi Davidoff).  This is a nifty method of outdoor seed germination using milk cartoons, 2 liter soda bottles, plastic kitty litter jugs or other similar types of containers. These mini-greenhouses are placed outdoors in a safe and sunny locations, protected from heavy winds but can still get water from rain or snow. Winter Sowing works with perennials, annuals, herbs and even garden veggies.

Winter sowing is not difficult but does have a few guidelines. For starters, the containers need to be “transparent”, deep enough to hold 3"-4” of potting soil along with adequate “head space” There also needs to be drainage holes on the bottom (so we don’t drown our seeds) as well as ventilation holes on the top (or remove the cap). Hardier seeds are started in January and the more tender seeds in February and March.

As the days start to warm but the nights are still cold seedlings will began to emerge. As the seedlings grow keep an eye on moisture levels and water as needed. Open up the containers on nicer days but close them up at night if cold or a chance of frost. Winter-sown seedlings are naturally “harden off” allowing direct transplanting into the garden come the Vernal (Spring) equinox!

http://www.wintersown.org

ENHANCING POLLINATOR HABITATS THROUGH GARDENING AND CERTIFICATION

What's all the buzz about gardens for pollinators? For starters, 85% of all flowering plants rely on pollinators! Without them you would not have many of the fruits and vegetables that you enjoy eating. Examples of common foods dependent upon or benefit from pollinators are apples, blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, cucumbers, pumpkins, almonds, melons, squash, peppers, tomatoes, spices, cocoa, coffee and figs just to name a few! As the saying goes, “1 in 3 bites” of our food relies on pollinators. So the next time you are at the supermarket look around at the produce section. Now look again but imagine 33% of the shelves are bare. Without pollinators, that could be a reality.

If your vegetable garden is not doing well or your fruit trees are failing to produce, chances are that you are not attracting enough pollinators into your yard. Our pollinators travel about without regard to property lines or fences. Creating a pollinator friendly garden is simple no matter how big or small. By planting a garden focused on welcoming these insects, you can increase the number of pollinators in your area. Select plants that provide adequate food sources for bees, butterflies, moths, beetles, hummingbirds and other pollinators. You will need both pollen and nectar producing plants with bright colors and a variety of shapes and sizes to attract many different pollinators. Stick with plants specific or native to your area (avoiding non-native and exotics) which better support pollinators. Have a combination of spring, summer and fall blooming flowers and whenever possible, plant in groups of 3 or more to better “grab” the pollinators attention. When planting annuals go with old fashion heirlooms (avoiding hybrids) and intersperse them among the vegetable plants in your garden. You can also designate a section of your yard strictly for a pollination garden and reduce grassy areas by planting more pollinator friendly trees, shrubs and plants. No matter if you are planting in flower pots, window boxes or garden beds you can make a positive impact one plant at a time. One yard is great, but a string of yards is even better!

In 2007 the U.S. Senate unanimously designated one week each June as National Pollinator Week. Several years later( 2011) Penn State Master Gardeners began certifying Pollinator Friendly Gardens. Pollinators need our help. Their numbers are in decline due to habitat loss, disease and contact with pesticides. Penn State Extension Master Gardeners are taking action to protect pollinators by planting pollinator friendly gardens and providing education for the gardening public. Won't you make an effort by gardening with a purpose, selecting plants that provide food, shelter and nesting sites and limiting the use of pesticide? Pollinators will, in turn, provide the pollination needed to protect our plant diversity and food sources. Certifying your property as “Pollinator Friendly” will help support a healthy ecosystem for our community and the future. Plus, you'll have the satisfaction of knowing you are making a difference!

WHAT GOES UP MOST COME DOWN!

Falling temperatures, shorter days and longer nights tells us that the current year is coming to an end. Nectar and pollen are becoming more and more scarce and the activity in the hive slows. The queen reduces or stops laying eggs, old bees die off, and drones are kicked out of the hive. “Winter bees” hunker down with one goal “survival”.  Winter may designate the end of the growing season but it actually marks the beginning of the New Year in beekeeping. And the condition of the colony going into winter will help determine the outcome/success the fallowing spring. A healthy hive free of disease with plenty of food stores, and a strong Queen helps with survival. As beekeepers we can also help the bees prepare for winter by reducing the size of the hives themselves.  During the spring and summer the hive grows quickly and so does the need for space. Boxes holding frames are added to accommodate this growth. Some of the frames/boxes are used for brood while others are used for the storage of honey (supers). But as October roles around and the bee population starts to decline, multiple boxes stacked on top of each other is not ideal. Especially if those boxes contain empty waxed frames or unused comb. The threat of swarming has passed (hopefully) so more bees can cover less frames in a smaller space. Condensing or “tightening up” the hive by removing unused frames and boxes makes it easier for the bees to maintain the temperature of their cluster (around 92 degrees), conserving the bees energy and food consumption. How much to compact the hive is a judgment call by the beekeeper.  Once the bees are tucked away for winter and snow starts to fall we can only hope we did our best. Come spring the days will be getting longer, the temperatures start to climb and hopefully our bees will emerge from their hives!

Before

 

After

SWARMING-IT'S ABOUT MAKING SPACE

Through-out the year, the activity changes within the beehive and the number of bees fluctuates according to these changes. Heading into winter a hive contains about 30,000 to 40,000 bees. By February/March that number has dropped down to around 20,000 provided the hive has survived winters icy grip. As April approaches and the days are getting warmer the Queen is in full laying mode and over the next few months the hive expands rapidly. Birthrates exceed death rates, and by June/July there are roughly 60,000+ bees in the hive. With this rapid growth, the hive becomes overcrowded, space is limited, and the queen may start to run out of brood space to lay her eggs. With more bees in the hive, the queen’s pheromones may not “get around” to all the workers. All of these factors can contribute to the hive deciding to swarm. In nature, swarming is instinctual, and results in creating a new hive from an existing (strong) colony. In other words, it’s a method of reproduction. Most swarms take place in the spring and early summer, however, bees can swarm at any time. The later in the season a hive swarms after July, the less chance it has for survival through the winter months.  

 

Once a hive has decided to swarm they put their game plan into motion. First, they select several eggs that will be developed into the hives new queen(s). These peanut-shaped swarm cells are usually found along the bottom of the frames. As these queens are developing, the old queen slows down her egg laying and “slims down” in preparation of flying off with the swarm. The hive does not wait around for the new queen(s) to emerge. Shortly before swarming, the worker bees gorge themselves on a 3-day supply of honey and nectar. Once they are ready the hives original queen along with 50%-60% of worker bees take flight (truly a sight to be seen). As the virgin daughter queens hatch out, they fight each other to the death until there is just one. This new queen will go on her mating flight and then resume the role left to her by her mother.

Bees swarm without having a new location in mind to move into. At first they will stop and cluster not far from their original hive, keeping the queen in the center of the swarm. The queen is not great at flying and needs to stop and rest. While resting, scout bees go out in search of a new home. They return to share their findings with the others. Collectively, the hive must agree before moving into their new location. When swarming the bees are focused on finding a new home. They are not protecting brood so they tend not to be aggressive. (Bees attack when they are protecting their hive or feel threatened). If you see a swarm of bees, keep your distance. Typically, they will not remain at that location for very long. You can also contact a beekeeper, who would be happy to come and “rescue” a swarm. Catching a swarm is the equivalent to free bees. (A package of bees cost roughly $95)

Swarming reduces the original hives numbers by disrupting the brood cycle, slowing down the hives growth and honey production. Sometimes, once a hive has swarmed, it is followed by after swarms. After swarm are smaller swarms that fallow the original or first swarm but usually with a virgin queen. This can result in the depletion of the hive. Since a hive swarms before new queen emerges there is always the risk of losing the new queen resulting in a queen less hive. This happened to us last year while inspecting a hive that had swarmed. Lifting off one of the brood boxes, we damaged the swarm cell killing the larva inside. There were no other swarm cells, nor were there any eggs to create an emergency queen. This left us scrambling to locate a queen for sale and to re queen the hive.

Beekeepers hate swarming and employ various methods to prevent it. They may clip one of the queen’s wings to keep her from flying or try to trick the bees into thinking they have already swarmed by doing what are called “splits”. They will continue to add supers, manipulate the brood boxes or even destroy swarm cells. All of these methods may post pone swarming, but it may not stop the inevitable.

This past summer we caught our first swarm of bees! Yea, free bees! It was easy since they were wrapped around one of the legs of our hive stand. Could it had been a swarm from one of our hives? Who knows? Either way we were able to scoop them up along with the queen and place them into a nuc box. (When catching swarms, you must catch the queen or the hive will not stay.)

As we enter into fall foraging/ nectar sources are becoming more scarce and swarming should be behind us, hopefully. Of course there is always absconding, when ALL bees in a hive leave in search of a new home.

"If you want to gather honey, don't kick over the beehive" Dale Carnegie

 

Raw, "wild flower" honey from our hives.

Uncapping fork and knife.

Our hives.

 

Removing the waxed cappings from the frames....

 

...to reveal the honey inside the comb.



Perforating the honey cells with the uncapping fork  This helps the honey to flow out of the cells during the extraction process.

Once uncapped the frames are placed into the extractor. 

It's time to give the extractor a spin....for 5 minutes!!!  Our extractor is a hand cranked model!

The honey is run through a strainer to remove any leftover wax or other particles.   

 

The aftermath. 

A by-product of harvesting honey, the cappings can be melted down and used for other purposes.

Bees cleaning up anything left on frames.

"If everything is honey

And I am what I eat

I must bee made of honey

And life is very sweet"

 

From Winnie The Pooh - Everything Is Honey